Specialising In Dog Reactive Behviour
As a dog owner, you've likely heard the term "positive reinforcement training" countless times. And for good reason – it's widely recognised as the most humane and effective method for teaching our canine companions, endorsed by leading veterinary and animal welfare organisations. It builds trust, strengthens your bond, and promotes a happy, confident dog.
But what happens when you're diligently using treats, praise, and gentle guidance, and still not seeing the results you hoped for? You might start to feel frustrated, disheartened, and even wonder if positive reinforcement simply "doesn't work" for your dog.
I was asked recently why one training method doesn’t work on all dogs. I thought about the question, and positive reinforcement is a training method that will work on all dogs.
Why? Because everything living being values something, and you can use that to motivate your dog into trying different behaviours.
However, let's clear something up right away:
What is causing my dog's reactive behaviour
Here are some common reasons why positive reinforcement might seem to be falling short, and how you can troubleshoot your approach:
This is perhaps the most crucial point. "Positive reinforcement" means adding something desirable to increase the likelihood of a behaviour happening again. The key is, your dog decides what's desirable.
Is your reward truly high-value? A dry biscuit might work in a quiet living room, but will it compete with a squirrel in the park? Often, when distractions are high, we need to up our reward game. Think stinky, meaty treats, a favourite toy, or access to a highly desired activity (like chasing a ball).
Are you delivering the reward effectively? If your dog is stressed or overstimulated, they might not even be able to process a treat. Ensure the reward is easy to consume and delivered calmly.
But here is the great thing, you can also use rewards to reduce reactivity, calm your dog and reduce unwanted behaviours! It just takes a trainer with the knowledge of how to do this, because you need to know about the dog's brain to apply it!
Dogs live in the moment. For your dog to connect their behaviour with the reward, the reinforcement must happen immediately – ideally within 1-3 seconds of the desired action.
Are you too slow? If you ask for a "sit," and your dog sits, but you fumble for the treat for too long, you might inadvertently be rewarding them for standing up again, or looking at something else.
Are you using a "marker" word or clicker? A quick "Yes!" or click precisely at the moment your dog performs the desired behaviour acts as a bridge, telling them exactly what they did right, even if the treat takes an extra second to deliver.
Training isn't just about what happens in formal sessions; it's about managing your dog's environment to prevent unwanted behaviours from being rehearsed and reinforced.
Are you expecting too much, too soon? If your puppy constantly nips, trying to train "no bite" when they're over-aroused is a losing battle. Instead, prevent the nips by redirecting them to a chew toy before they bite, and reward the chewing.
Are you training at the wrong time? Are they tired? Is there too much going on? Is your dog in a scary environment? Are triggers too close. Any people wait until their dogs react, instead of reducing the triggers and setting their dogs up for success.
Are there competing reinforcements? If your dog jumps on guests and gets attention (even negative attention), that attention is often more reinforcing than your calm "sit" cue. Use a lead, baby gate, or a friend to help manage the jumping so you can reward the four-on-the-floor greeting. Self reinforcing behaviours are more difficult to train because it is continually rehearsed.
Complex behaviours aren't learned all at once. We need to break them down into tiny, achievable steps (splitting) and reward each tiny approximation towards the goal (shaping).
Are your criteria too high? If you want a perfect "stay," start by rewarding a half-second stay, then one second, then two, and so on. Don't expect perfection from the outset.
Are you moving too fast? Increase distance, duration, and distraction gradually. What works in your quiet kitchen might not work in a busy park. Build up slowly in different environments.
If you have a reactive dog, space is the best method, whilst you train confidence and then gradually allow them to get closer, but only when they are comfortable to do so.
Sometimes, a dog's behaviour isn't just about a lack of training; it's a symptom of an underlying emotional state or physical discomfort.
Is your dog stressed, fearful, or anxious? A dog who is over-threshold (too stressed to learn) won't respond to treats. You need to address the emotional state first, often through desensitisation and counter-conditioning, working below their threshold.
Is there a medical issue? Pain, discomfort, or an undiagnosed health problem can manifest as behavioural changes. Always rule out medical causes with your vet.
A qualified behaviourist will need to carry out a behavioural assessment to identify the function and variables of the behaviour.
Dogs thrive on consistency. If different family members use different cues, different rewards, or different rules, it can be incredibly confusing for your dog.
Are you (and your family) consistent? Ensure everyone is on the same page with commands, expectations, and reward delivery.
Have a look on this study on horses link
When positive reinforcement training seems ineffective, it's a sign to re-evaluate your approach, not abandon the method. It's about becoming a detective:
What is actually reinforcing to my dog in this moment?
Is my timing precise enough?
Am I setting my dog up for success in their environment?
Am I breaking the behaviour down into small enough steps?
What to Avoid (Punishment-Based Methods):
Avoid methods that involve using aversive stimuli or fear to suppress behaviour. These include:
Choke chains, prong collars, and electronic (shock) collars: These tools work by causing pain or discomfort. (Note: Electronic collars are now banned in England as of February 1, 2024, and will be banned in Scotland from June 13, 2024.)
Yelling, hitting, or physical corrections: These can damage your relationship and teach your dog to fear you.
Dominance theory: This outdated and debunked theory suggests you need to "dominate" your dog to train them. It often leads to harsh, confrontational methods that are detrimental to your dog's welfare.
If you're still struggling, don't hesitate to reach out to Rovers Return and book our free call.
I can offer an objective eye, identify missed opportunities, and provide tailored guidance to help you and your dog succeed. Investing in professional help is an investment in your dog's well-being and your shared happy future.
Highly Qualified Behaviourist
Highly Qualified Behaviourist
Sam: 07725 802995
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